At the northern end of the Lynn Canal — the longest and deepest fjord in North America — lies Haines, a small town of about 2,500 people surrounded by some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in Southeast Alaska. Unlike its neighbour Skagway just 15 miles away by water, Haines is connected to the Alaska Highway system by road, giving it a year-round accessibility and a genuinely Alaskan everyday rhythm.
Getting to Haines
By Ferry: The Alaska Marine Highway serves Haines with connections to Juneau (4.5 hours south) and Skagway (1 hour north by water). The ferry from Juneau is a spectacular journey up the Lynn Canal with views of glaciers and mountain walls rising directly from the water.
By Road: From the Alaska Highway system, drive through Whitehorse, Yukon, then south on the Haines Highway through the Chilkat Pass — one of the most scenic roads in the north.
Bald Eagle Viewing: The World’s Largest Concentration
Every autumn — primarily November and December — between 3,000 and 4,000 bald eagles congregate along a five-mile stretch of the Chilkat River at the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve just outside town. They come for the late salmon run, which persists unusually long here due to an underground warm spring that keeps the river ice-free even in deep winter.
Standing on the bank of the Chilkat River with thousands of bald eagles in the cottonwood trees, on the gravel bars, and wheeling overhead is one of those experiences that short-circuits normal language. Even outside the peak gathering season, bald eagles are a daily presence in Haines throughout the year.
Hiking in the Haines Area
Mount Riley offers summit views over the Lynn Canal and surrounding mountain ranges. The most popular route begins at Mile 3 of the Mud Bay Road and takes two to three hours round trip.
Battery Point Trail is an easy two-mile round trip hike through forest to a rocky point with views up the Lynn Canal toward the glaciers — good for families and those wanting a gentle walk with reward.
The Hammer Museum
Haines has a pleasingly eccentric local culture. The Hammer Museum houses over 2,000 hammers spanning human history, from Stone Age tools to contemporary specialty hammers. It sounds absurd and it is genuinely wonderful. The admission fee ($3) is among the best value cultural experiences in Alaska.
Where to Stay and Eat
Hotel Halsingland occupies a former officers’ quarters building in Fort Seward — historic, comfortable, and central. For dining, Fireweed Restaurant is the local favourite with excellent locally sourced ingredients, and Howsers Supermarket Deli delivers remarkably good sandwiches at very reasonable prices.
Best Time to Visit Haines
June through August for hiking, kayaking, and long summer days. November and December for the peak bald eagle congregation — one of the world’s great wildlife events, and almost entirely crowd-free.
Practical Tips
- Bring binoculars for eagle viewing.
- The Haines Highway drive is exceptional in autumn when the foliage turns gold.
- Book accommodation well ahead for the eagle gathering season (October–December).
- The road connection to the Alaska Highway makes Haines accessible by RV and car year-round.